- Today’s miles: 12.6
- Ascent: 1,262 ft
- Descent: 3,422 ft
- Total Miles on Trip: 141.4
I didn’t sleep very well last night. As I was in the process of trying to fall asleep, I noticed a foul odor building inside our tent. It was probably just the smell of myself and Kevin hiking four days without a shower but for whatever reason my mind fixated on it. Also, I awoke in the middle of the night to find out tent was wet. Not damp but wet. It wasn’t raining but maybe condensation build up? I’m sure there’s a simple explanation but it doesn’t really matter the reason- the tent and the outside of my sleeping bag was wet.
We pack up our damp stuff and leave camp at 7:30 A.M. Our plan is to hike a mile and a half to Sapphire Lake where we will have a hot breakfast. Kevin is eager to try out a spoon he widdled last night. I plan to execute operation double breakfast and it gives me something to look forward to.
As we hike, the shadows of the granite mountains loom over us and I feel slow and tired. I try to bring my mind to sun and food. Those things always help, right? Sure enough, when arrive to Sapphire Lake the sun is shining gloriously. Kevin successfully uses his widdled spoon, while I destroy double breakfast. The extra food does me well as we approach the end of Muir Pass.
As we hike, I see a family pass us with a boy and a girl who both look middle-school age. I comment on the boy’s Lakers hat as I pass and think what a badass family to be backpacking out here. Soon after, as I’m looking down at where I’m going, two marmots explode 10 feet in front of me. One of them has honey blonde fur and after scurrying away he pauses, stands on hind legs, and stares back at me. Is it a challenge? I can’t tell if the marmot is cute or slightly deranged.
We walk further into nowhere and I take in the vast wasteland of the never-ending granite rock. Tiny rocks on the trail, medium sized rocks off the trail, and giant rock that forms the mountains. There’s no trees, no grass, or anything green whatsoever. Only rocks and the inky blue lakes which seem to add to the sense of aloofness out here.
Finally, Kevin and I can spot Muir Hut and we know the end is near. Muir Hut was built in 1931 and is a stone hut at the top of the pass that serves to keep travelers safe during storms. Like so much out here, the name was dedicated in John Muir’s memory.
At last we are at the top marking the end of the pass. Kevin and I venture into the dome-shaped hut and it’s larger inside than it looks on the outside. It could probably fit 10-15 hikers in tight quarters. I wonder how many people have found themselves stranded in here as rain, lightening, or snow wrecked havoc outside.
We hang out for 15 minutes as I munch on trail mix while Kevin checks for service. We’re shortly joined by another hiker who tells about his journey. He said he started in Ague Dulce (Southern California) and he’s hiking until….. he doesn’t know? “I’m just going to see how far I can make it,” he tells me with a shoulder shrug. “I don’t have work and I like being out here. And then when I want to get off, I’ll get off. But who knows- maybe I’ll do the whole PCT this year.” He also mentions to us that Mt. Whitney is currently closed due to the recent earthquake on . We had been hearing rumors now our friend confirms it. It’s a little concerning as we are ending our hike at Whitney and getting picked-up by Kevin’s parents at Whitney Portal. We still have 8 planned days left on our trip though and a lot can change between now and then.
Break time is over and we say good-bye to the lovely hut and fellow hiker and begin our descent. The terrain continues to be gnarly as the trail consists purely of small loose rock and snowy patches. There’s no shade anywhere and the sun beats down on us.
Stopping for lunch isn’t ideal without shade but we’re hungry and need a break. I end up rigging my umbrella to my pack creating some small shade that protects my face. Yay! With new energy, I begin making my lunch which consists of two tortillas, tuna, and a generous amount of mayonnaise. I chase it down with a spoonful of peanut butter and a bar. Satisfied, I close my eyes and fall asleep for 20 minutes. I don’t think there’s a day I haven’t fallen asleep midday.
We get back on the trail around 1 o’clock and come across two female hikers. They look to be in their early 20’s and one is wearing a Cal Poly hat. Kevin greets them and strikes up a conversation about how he just graduated from Poly. There is talk about San Luis Obispo, majors, and all the fun college things. The subject rolls around to hiking and one of the girls mentions how her hiking partner is short on food this section. Her friend confirms this and somewhat bashfully tells us, “I’ve only had a couple pieces of salami and a bar today. It’s pretty bad.” Hardly thinking, I tell her I have extra and does she want some?
“Are you sure? I don’t want to take your food.” she says, with a look of concern on her face.
“Yes, yes, yes I’m sure,” I assure her. She thanks me profusely and we all depart in good spirts.
A good few hours after encountering the girls, we come upon what is, at last, non-rocky terrain! It’s blissful walking on dirt and with the dirt comes flatish trail. It leads us to a meadow where everything is green and alive again. It’s somewhat astounding to think only a few hours ago we were surrounded by nothing but rock and black inky bodies of water. I appreciate both, special in their own ways, but am thankful to be currently walking through the meadow.
As evening rolls in, we somewhat hastily pick a campsite as I have urgent business to dig a hole. Right before we stop at our campsite, a hiker tells us that there are “gnarly bear scratches on the trees down there” pointing in the direction we are heading. And unfortunately, Kevin and I are still a day or maybe two away from fitting everything in our bear canister. As we set-up our tent, Kevin rigs up a bear deterrent system by hanging his dirty socks on the outside of the tent.
Before dinner, I spend some time at a near-by creek soaking my feet and writing. I’ve been doing this writing on the notes section of my phone and it’s been a really interesting experience. I hadn’t planned to do nearly as I have been, but I enjoy it. It gives me some time to reflect and it’s fun to read back on. Anyways, that’s going to end any writing for tonight and we’ll see what tomorrow brings.
