- Today’s Miles: 12.2
- Ascent: 2,227 ft
- Decent: 331 ft
- Total Miles on Trip: 38.1
When I was falling asleep last night it felt like my skin was on fire. The revenge of the mosquito bites. I wonder how many I have. Kevin guessed at least 30 on my back alone. I wonder if altogether I hit the 100 mark?
It’s a strange night as I fall in and out of sleep. At one point, in the middle of the night, I remember Kevin saying something to me about a light being left on. Right after, I remember a bright light being shined directly on our tent. This morning I ask Kevin about this and he tells me it was our camping neighbors next door.
I’m out of the tent by 5:20 A.M. and roll up my sleeping bag. I see a large tear at the bottom of the stuff sack for the bag. Damn. Well, don’t let the pack get wet. So far, the weather has been gorgeous our first three days on trail. I try not to get lulled into thinking it will ALWAYS be like this. But it’s been so sunny and warm that it’s hard to imagine rain or thunderstorms. But I try not to jinx it.
The first seven miles have us traveling flat across grassy meadows. We are also walking parallel to the Tuolumne River. Flat trail, meadows, and a river? It doesn’t get much better than this, I think.
Partway through the morning, we cross paths with a hiker going the opposite direction. He is wearing fuzzy pants with colorful designs on them. But that’s not what catches my eyes. He’s hiking with one shoe. His shoeless foot only has a sock on it. I ask the obvious question. “Lost it last night back at Lyell River,” he casually replies as if he was telling me the weather report for today.
“Are you going to be alright?” I ask.
“Oh ya. I’ll be good. I’ll get into Tuolumne Meadows and figure something out.”
I think of how I’m carrying two minimalist trail runners for this hike, a pair on my feet and a pair in my pack, and ask him what size shoe he wears. His reply is size 12. Shoot. I’m a 9.5. With nothing to offer him, we depart and he leaves with a big smile on his face. I think his trail name should be Strayed after Cherly Stray, although she at least had a sandal to put on and it looks like he has no such luck.
We stop for a short break in the morning and then for an early lunch right before 11:00 A.M. We decide to stop early for lunch because in half a mile the sharp ascent up Donohue Pass begins. We find a spot along the river to set-up and I go to dunk in the river. It’s so cold that it hurts after about 10 seconds. However, the day is beautiful and the sun is awaiting.
At about noon, we leave our luxurious lunch spot and start to climb up. Guthook, the hiking app I’m using for navigation on the JMT, tells us we have 1,300 feet of elevation gain over the next 2.5 miles. 1,300 feet of elevation gain? What does that even mean, I wonder?
It turns out it means switchback after switchback. Kevin and I are in good spirits as we make the climb up, making references to two of our favorite pastimes of high school water polo and Call of Duty. I must be woozy though because at some point I cross a PCT hiker going the opposite direction of us. We are going south and he is going north. But for some reason, I can’t wrap my head around this. When he tells me he’s doing the PCT, I look at him confused. “You’re doing the PCT going south?” I ask him.
He cocks his head back and pauses before replying. “No. I’m going north to Canada. You are the one going south.” I tell him he’s right and the elevation must be getting to me. He laughs and shakes his head as we split.
We arrive at Lyell Fork, partway up Donohue Pass, and talk to our first fellow JMT southbound hiker. His name is Philip and he tells us he is planning on doing the JMT in 11 days, averaging about 20 miles a day. He is going to keep hiking today while Kevin and I will be camping here. As he tells us his plan to keep going to higher and more exposed ground, I notice some ominous looking clouds rolling in. I think about what I wrote this morning about jinxing our good weather luck and how Philip is heading directly towards the clouds. We shall see.
It turns out the only storm we get in the evening is a mosquito storm. Kevin and I hang out in the tent most of the afternoon and evening to avoid the vicious mini-vampires. For dinner, I have dehydrated buffalo chicken and Kevin has Backpacker’s Pantry Pad Thai. Kevin’s Pad Thai includes specific instructions with multiple steps and includes a packet of sriracha, peanut sauce, and some type of oil. It’s fancy times out here, I think, going to bed with a full stomach.
