PCT Day 24: Mt. Rainier National Park (7/17)

Today’s Miles: 24

PCT Miles Hiked: 350/2660

I wake up to the slam of wind crashing against my tent. It’s grey outside indicating that dawn breaking. Between the wind, dampness, and noise last night, I’m ready to leave this lake. I pack up my stuff and begin hiking, taking my first steps on trail today a few ticks before 5 am.

I’m pleasantly surprised to find myself crossing a highway an hour into the morning. There are pit toilets and trash bins and I take advantage of both. I walk for five minutes or so up the highway, where the PCT rejoins on the other side. I see a big sign saying Welcome to Mt. Rainer National Park. There is informational text on how the u-shape of these mountains are a result of glacial carving. Also, I read how the Cascade Mountains keep clouds and precipitation in Western Washington, which is why it is so wet and lush as opposed to dry Eastern WA.

The sun breaks for good in the late morning. It’s the first steady stream of light in the past 24 hours and it’s gorgeous hiking. The trail isn’t all that steep and cycles through ridge walks, meadows, and forest. I turn a corner and find myself looking directly at Mt. Rainier. It’s vastness and snow-capped ruggedness makes it look like more like a backdrop to a picture than real life.

It’s 12 pm and I take a look to see I’ve already covered 15 miles today. There’s a stiffness developing near my ankle in my right foot and I could use a good break after last night’s poor sleep. With the bugs being as bad as they are, I find a shady spot next to a river and pitch my tent in the middle of the day. It’s 100% to keep out the mosquitos. But it also gives me the opportunity to take a nap and just have a little time in space that feels like mine. Being outdoors is great but you realize quickly it’s a very shared space.

Max-Heap and I had talked about camping at Buesch Lake the night before, which would leave us only 6 miles short of our next resupply in White Pass. I decide to stop at a lake a mile before called Pipe Lake. The bottom of my feet hurt and I want to stop hiking. I go to set up my tent at Pipe Lake and the mosquitos are swarming in clouds. They are completely overwhelming as I set-up my tent. I make a beeline into the tent and probably 25 of the four-legged devils make it in the tent with me. Smack! Smack! I kill every last one and then begin unpacking my stuff. Sorry mosquitos.

I hear footsteps coming from the trail and see Max-Heap. “Yo Max-Heap,” I croak from the safety of my tent. He walks over and we talk about how good the trail was today. “Shit man,” he tells me. “I was thinking about going all the way to the Kracker Barrell in White Pass tonight. Get some town food. But with my luck, they’d be closing right when I was walking to order a burger.”

There’s not too much more time to chat as the mosquitos begin to devour Max-Heap. He pitches his tent about 15 yards from mine and makes a mad dash into it. It’s a tent night for sure and I’m very okay with that. The plan for tomorrow is wake up early, get to White Pass in the am, eat town food, hang out for the day, eat more town food, camp in the hikers camping behind the store, and then head out the following morning. This 98 mile section from Snoqualmie to White Pass that we just completed was a total morale booster. The trail was well maintained, snowless, and not insanely steep. And then it’s just White Pass to Cascade Locks and Washington is in the books!