Today’s Miles: 17
Total Trip Miles: 705/2660
I wake up with a bit of a groan, taking a quick assessment of my body. I feel tired and sore from yesterday. But there’s no time to lose. I’m 11 miles from Shelter Cove Resort and I want to make sure I get there before breakfast ends.
As I hike in, I think about other SOBO hikers and where they may be. Max-Heap probably a day or two ahead. Grace a day or two behind. Victor is doing the Oregon Coast trail and then rejoining the PCT in Nor-Cal. I haven’t seen Mousetrap since Stehekin but word is he may be close behind. It’s been nice hiking in solitude these past few days though. This is aided by the fact it seems I’m constantly meeting up with other hikers and people associated with the trail throughout the day.
When I arrive at Shelter Cove, there’s a host of Northbound hikers milling around in front of the general store. Also, there are two huge tents with PCT emblems on a grassy area a few hundred yards from the general store. I drop my pack off at one of the tables under the tent and plug in my phone and external battery pack to the charging station. It’s cool that the resort set up a spot for hikers.
I order a breakfast burrito and an iced latte and get to talking a group of 3 Northbounders. Two of them work at Mammoth Ski Resort, one a ski boot fitter and the other a masseuse. They tell me of an alternative route they took off the PCT to arrive here, meaning I can take it on my way out. Apparently, it was the old PCT before it was rerouted and brings you by a campground in which the camp hosts are offering trail magic. Sounds interesting.
The day at Shelter Cove passes in a way that feels both slow and fast. I tell the group of 3 I’ll meet up with them at a swimming spot on the beach after I do laundry and shower, but both seem to take forever. By the end of my shower the idea of jumping into the lake has lost all appeal.
In the afternoon, I go to the cashier of the general store to pick up my resupply box. She look at a list of names and with a look of sympathy, tells me she doesn’t see my name. “Here,” she says, handing me the list. “You look.” I look and don’t see my name either. My resupply box sadly isn’t here. I could wait until tomorrow to see if it arrives then, but what if it still isn’t here? I still have a day and half of food remaining from my last resupply and my next stop, Crater Lake, is only 80 miles away. I decide I’ll just resupply by buying some food at the general store and forgo the box.
I head out from Shelter Cove late in the afternoon, both paper and digital maps in hand. I’m taking the alternative route suggested by the NOBOs and there’s a couple of trail junctions to navigate. I find it fine and hike on. This alternative runs right alongside a strong flowing creek, a rarity in Oregon. The sound of the water is peaceful and I feel mostly re-energized from the town food and cleanliness of the shower and laundry. As I’m thinking about how good I have it, I suddenly begin to get devoured by mosquitos. I make emergency camp next to an algae-looking lake. Not exactly how I pictured today ending, but you never know on the PCT.
