PCT Day 47: Lake of the Woods (8/9)

Today’s Miles: 32

Total Trip Miles: 840/2660

When I arrive at my first water source in the morning, a spring that is trickling cold and clear, there are maybe 15 other hikers breaking at the spot. It makes me think of what may have actually taken place in older times, in which people congregated around water sources to drink, rest, and share news. Right now, the news and talk is about the fires in Nor Cal, specifically the Dixie fire which continues to be growing at an ever alarming rate. About half of the Northbounders here in Southern Oregon made it through right before the fire broke, and the other half had to skip sections around Shasta and Etna, some forgoing up to 200 miles of trail.

Everyone has different takes on missing those miles due to the fire closures. One girl asks me if hikers still get a medal if they skipped 200+ miles. “A medal?” I ask her quizzically.

“Ya, you know the medal you get at the very end? You fill out the form on the PCTA website for completing your thru-hike and they will mail you a medal.”

I have no idea what she is talking about, meaning I’m obviously not concerned with the medal. My motto is to hike what is available to hike, and be flexible in plans. I’m not a purist in the sense I feel a burning need to have a continuous foot path from Canada to Mexico. I’m also not thrilled with this idea of having to “‘make up sections” at the end of the hike. Can you imagine, you get to the southern terminus in Campo, congratulate yourself for a second, and then say alright now to the next bus up to Nor Cal to make up the trail! Ya, no thanks. To sum up my thoughts on this, the PCT is 2,660 miles, and I would like to finish my hike in the ballpark of those miles, even if it means adding on non-PCT miles and not having a continuous foot flash.

Around 2 pm, I pop out on a highway and catch a hitch into Lake of the Woods Resort. A NOBO hiker recommended the Resort to me and, critically, gave me the shower code located a few hundred yards behind the restaurant. I take an amazing shower, scrubbing off the thick layer of dirt from my legs and feet. First shower since Shelter Cove which was 5 days ago.

I poke around in the restaurant /lodge, checking out a room labeled library that features a decent selection of books. I grab one and head to my table, ordering some coffee and food. At the end of my meal, a lady asks if I’m hiking the PCT. When I tell her yes, she tells me she’d be happy to drop me back off at the trail head. Sure, I say.

In the car, I learn she has 3 properties, one here at Lake of the Woods, one near Seiad Valley, and the last a place I haven’t heard of in CA. As we are driving, she tells me I can stay at her cabin tonight in Lake of the Woods. “I’m heading out this afternoon back to Seiad, but you’re welcome to stay. Just needs a little cleaning.” I hesitate and then politely decline offer. A very nice offer, but no, got to keep hiking.

Two hours later, I’m somewhat kicking myself for declining, as I’m supremely unmotivated to hike. For whatever reason, I’m continually thirsty, even though I’m drinking water every 15 minutes. I was going to dry camp tonight, but my water is running out and I don’t want to go to bed thirsty. So onto the next water source.

As the sun is setting, I arrive at a shelter which serves as the next water source and where I’ll camp tonight. It’s called the South Brown Mountain Shelter and has a hand-pump that spits out cold water. There are something like 20 other hikers, all northbound, dispersed in the woods around the shelter. “Why is no one in the shelter?” I ask another hiker.

“Rodents,” is his reply. Sure enough, I open the door to the cabin and sitting on top of the stove is a rat that is larger than the size of my fist. Gross. I quickly close the door and head back to the picnic table, to join members of my own species. I head to my tent around 9:30, pitched a healthy distance away from the shelter.