PCT Day 11: Entering Glacier Peak Wilderness (7/4)

Today’s Miles: 19

Total Miles: 139/2690

Victor and Squegy are heading out when I wake up this morning. Squegy told me yesterday she was trying to do 25 mile days because she only has 4 days worth of food for this section. Victor on the other hand, told me he was trying to do 15 miles to take it somewhat easy on his rolled ankle. If past experience means anything, I think Victor will hike more than this.

I spend the first hours of hiking thinking about trying to catch up to Squegy and Victor. But when I catch myself breathing hard at only mile 2 of the day, I realize this is silly. And not productive. It’s a long, long, long trek ahead and trying to be a hero in the second week of hiking while in an extremely steep section is foolish. I take a nice break at about mile 4 of the morning, soaking my feet and dozing a bit in the morning sun.

After my doze, I look at a map and see we are entering Glacier Peak Wilderness. It’s a section that is suppose to be one of the most beautiful and steepest parts of the PCT. Snow conditions reports as mixed, and I certainly don’t expect everything to be melted. It seems other hikers at the front of the SOBO pack have gotten through so I’m hopeful.

As I enter into Glacier Peak Wilderness, it lives up to its steep reputation right away. The sun is high and beats down as I ascend a ridge that keeps steadily climbing. Vegetation is overgrown on the trail and I plow on through for what feels like eternity. Finally, I’m in the shade and rejoice by taking off my shirt and soaking in a small waterfall. However, I’m almost immediately swarmed by black biting flies. Shirts goes back on in record time and it’s time to keep moving.

Around 2 in the afternoon, I see the words “100 miles PCT SOBO” scratched into a turnoff sign. Whoo oo! I made it to mile 100 on the PCT, although I’ve done a bit more total because of retracing steps on the border tag. I have completed 1/27th of the trail. The two things I have appreciated most so far is meeting people and trail towns. And those can go hand in hand. Kicking it right on the lake in Stehekin with a group of fellow hikers yesterday was probably my favorite moment of my trip thus far. It’s pretty amazing how quickly complete strangers cannot know a bond over the simple fact that they are both walking from Canada to Mexico.

Well, all good feelings are put to the side, because I’m really, really tired at about 4:30 p.m. I check to see my progress for the day and I’ve done 15 miles with a whopping 4,600 feet of elevation gain. And I’m just about done. I’m making camp here, I think, no matter how early it is. I eat dinner and dessert and curl up in my sleeping bag feeling kind of sorry for myself.

I wake up an hour later feeling loads better. Shoot, why not do another few

miles today? Stopping like that left a sour taste in my mouth and I’m refreshed from my nap and well nourished from my dinner. Plus it’s the beauty of backpacking and being out here right? You’re not regimented to a schedule or even a location. So, I pack my tent and everything else up, and start walking. I put on Lumineers radio and walk another easy 3.5 miles of descent and am treated to some stunning views. No sign of Squegy or Victor when I stop at 7:30. My hunch about Victor this morning was right.

Morning sunrise

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