Today’s Miles: 24
Total Miles: 1,032
Due to where I chose to camp last night, I have to make a short but unfortunate wade through the Tuolumne River to get back on trail. It is bitingly cold this morning and while my feet ache from the temperature of the river, it’s my fingers giving me problems. Actions that require fine motor skills such as tying shoes and zipping things up is simply not happening right now. I walk with my shoes untied for a bit and eventually, gratefully, make my way into the sun.
The miles tick by and in the heart of the morning I walk by signage that gives historical context to some of the surroundings. I go by Parsons Memorial Lodge, a beautiful Lodge built with stone in 1915 by the Sierra High Club. There is also Soda Springs, a spring that produces carbonated water from “apparently nowhere, causing geologists to puzzle over its existence”.
I make it the road, Hwy 120, which drops me off at some picnic tables in front of the Tuolumne Meadows Visitor’s Center. I’m greeted by two backpackers and one quickly asks me “What are your plans for the closure?” I’m thinking they are talking about the Nor Cal closures and I tell him I’m heading southbound.
“No. All the National Forests in CA are closed until September 17th.” He goes on to tell me that Forest Service is making these closures in an attempt to dedicate all resources to fighting the Caldor and Dixie fires.
This is breaking news to me as I haven’t had service over the past 5 days. I ask the hikers a few more questions and learn that while National Forest and Wilderness areas are closed, National Parks are still open. Meaning where I am now, Yosemite National Park, is still open.
After mulling it over a bit, I decide to leave Tuolumne Meadows and continue another 10 miles through Yosemite. This will bring me to the top of Donohue Pass and the southern border of Yosemite National Park. From there, it’s another 22 miles into Red’s Meadow which a short shuttle runs from Red’s into Mammoth Lakes. I decide if there is heavy signage or a ranger, I will turn around and head back to Tuolumne Meadows and figure out how to get off trail there. If neither are present, I’m going to try to make it to Red’s Meadow and get into Mammoth.
There is no turning around for the next 10 miles, as I hike along the beautiful Tuolumne River. The terrain is all flat and the river runs alongside an expansive meadow, wide with space and very few trees. I remember this same walk vividly from the JMT last year, and even take a lunch break at the same spot from last year, right before you start the big climb up Donohue Pass.
Donohue Pass is nearly 3,000 foot of ascent and goes through Lyell Canyon on the way to the top. I don’t know if it’s because I’ve done this climb before or I’m just motivated to make it to Mammoth, but I rocket up the Pass. I stop briefly here and there in the Lyell Fork area, where water is abundant and the mountains are barren, consisting of jagged rock and little else.
I’m at the top of Donohue Pass and there is no signage regarding closure entering Ansel Adam’s Wilderness. I hesitate slightly, but keep moving south towards Red’s Meadow. The afternoon turns to early evening and as I go around a corner, I see another person. It’s a forest service ranger and I take my headphones out.
I say hello and the first thing he asks me is “Did you recently pass by hikers having a campfire?”
I tell him no, I did see two hikers about a mile back, but they weren’t having a campfire.
“Huh. I though I smelled some campfire smoke and I’m trying to find it.” He makes a gesture towards the shovel he is carrying.
We are both silent for the next 10 seconds or so, and it feels unbearable to me if he is going to ask me what I’m doing out here. Finally I blurt out, “So, uh is it true that Wilderness areas are closed?”
He confirms that this is true, and almost as if he has been reminded that it’s his job, asks me if I am a PCT hiker. I tell him yes, and he says the Forest Service is letting people get off trail in reasonable spots. I confirm that I’m getting off tomorrow at Red’s Meadow and he nods. We depart and I feel relieved to have ran into him and been given the go ahead to make it to Red’s Meadow.
I end up hiking until nearly 8:30 pm to put myself about 15 miles outside Red’s. I pass by the gorgeous Thousand Islands Lake, getting its name from the seemingly thousand of granite islands emerging from the water. It’s legit dark when I pitch my tent and I crawl straight into my sleeping bag and start rummaging through my food. I realize very well there’s a possibility that this could be my last night on trail with these new closures. The thought soon subsides into the pleasure of eating after lots and lots of hiking, and feeling warm and full, I close my eyes and go to sleep.
Those pictures are beautiful! 🙂